Swindon (Wiltshire)

The ‘New’ town of Swindon, developed as a result of the Great Western Railway establishing its works there in the 1840s. There’s very little of architectural interest in the town centre, the usual 1960s/70s shops and drab buildings, but the lion (ex-demolished pub?) in the main street adds a bit of fun.

Buildings of interest lie in and around the railway works. The Mechanics’ Institution of 1854/1892 is now in a very poor state and has been deteriorating for years. St. Marks Church built in 1845 by Scott & Moffatt in Decorated style was the works church.

The redevelopment of the works site into a designer shopping outlet has reused some of the original buildings, as has STEAM the museum of the GWR – well worth a visit. 

The Bargeboards & Architectural Details of Guildford

Revisiting the StreetScapes website, which was set up in 2020 to support an exhibition of photographs, at the Guildford Institute, capturing examples of Bargeboards and Architectural details in Guildford. 

http://www.exhibitionbloc.com/streetscapes

St Michael's Abbey, Farnborough

A hidden and little known gem in Farnborough on the Surrey-Hampshire border.              

St Michael’s Abbey and the adjoining monastery of St Michael has a surprising history being the final resting place of Napoleon 111, his wife Empress Eugenie and their only son, the Prince Imperial, Louis.

Having been exiled Napoleon chose to live in England and upon his death and that of his son the Empress Eugenie moved to Farnborough and decided to build an Imperial Mausoleum to house their remains. The resulting magnificent French Neo-Gothic and Romanesque style building is outstanding.

Next to the mausoleum the monastery of St Michael was built to accommodate a religious order to pray for the souls of those in the crypt – Napoleon, his wife and son; and to share the Christian Faith. The monastery continues as a small Benedictine community, home of the Catholic National Library and operates a commercial bookbindery. 

Aldershot

A cold, wet, grey day in Aldershot – miserable, no good for taking photographs but OK for shopping? The place is unappreciated but the town does has a few good buildings and some interesting architectural details if you stop to look around.

The town centre has no historic buildings having only developed when the army set up camp there in the 1850’s (the older part of Aldershot lies to the East), said to be one of only a few towns to just have shops along one side of its High Street.

One of the best buildings in my view is the ex Ritz/ABC cinema (now Bingo) it’s very much in the 1930’s style, Historic England don’t think it is worth listing (I have asked them) and it's not even locally listed so could well be lost to redevelopment.

  

Chichester & Bognor Regis

It was a nice sunny day for a ‘PhotoWalk’ in Chichester last year, with lots of interesting buildings and details to see and photograph. I think that Chichester, Winchester and Guildford are as good as each other but I, of course, prefer Guildford.

The centre was quite busy with shoppers but peaceful in the Cathedral (pleased that they do not charge for entry as a lot of other cathedrals do). Some good stained glass especially an excellent set of windows in the Lady Chapel by Clayton & Bell, there is a large window (1877) in the South Transept by Marechal of Metz with stunning coloured glass and flying serpents !

Then onward to Bognor Regis through a sea of neat bungalows, all spick & span, then some attractive Tudorbethan houses nearer Bognor. The “Regis” was bestowed on Bognor in 1929. A bustling shopping street, unpretentious and quite unlike Chichester. A few buildings of interest including the RC church (1881) by J S Hansom an impressive West front with a plate tracery rose window. 

   

Kingston upon Thames

A visit to Kingston to keep up with changes and to check on things that can be included on the next PhotoWalk around the town centre. Not too many changes but a few things seen that had gone unnoticed before.

As is the case with many  towns one has to look above the shops to see things of interest and to appreciated the buildings. Kingston has a good town centre with some interesting buildings among the best being the church of All Saints, which has relatively recently been given an excellent internal makeover.

The local Museum and Art Gallery building (1904) is worth a visit. It has a pleasing exterior but getting people to visit local museums is always a challenge and not helped here by being a bit cut off from the town centre by a busy road.

The Guildhall (1935) by Maurice E Webb has an impressive front and Bentall’s (1931-5) by Webb in ‘Wrenaissance’ style has some good sculpture on its frontage. The Market Place had a makeover a couple of years ago and is now a lively area with the Market House (1838-40) at its centre, a 1706 statue of Queen Anne shines brightly over the market.

Norwich

A recent trip to Norwich allowed me to revisit and re-photograph a number of interesting buildings. Probably my favourite city with a great Cathedral, the Castle Museum and dozens of churches. It being Heritage weekend meant a rush around some of the buildings that were open.

Two 20th Century buildings stand out architecturally in the city, one in a classical form and the other in the 'Swedish Romantic Movement' style.

The Norwich Union building of 1904 by G J Skipper with giant Ionic columns and rustication, an imposing facade to give the right impression for an insurance company.

City Hall was designed by C H James & S R Pierce in 1931 and completed in 1938. An impressive building having a balcony 365' long, a portico of attenuated polygonal pillars and a tower 185' high, all in the "Swedish Neoclassical spirit".

3 bronze doors decorated with eighteen plaques by James Woodford depicting scenes of the city's history caught my eye and are well worth a closer look.

Sheerness. Local Board of Health Building.

Sheerness has always been a ‘Back of Beyond’ sort of place and despite the new Sheppey Crossing bridge linking the Isle of Sheppey with the mainland the town still has that feeling – you don’t pass through Sheerness you have to have a reason to go there.

In the centre of the town is situated a building of interest which is in a poor state and has remained derelict for years. The Local Board of Health building has two parts to it, one the base of a large water tank (now removed) and the other part quite different in style. The water tower dates from 1863 and front building may date from the 1880’s.

Listed by EH in 1987 it was delisted in 1988, Swale Borough Council are treating it as a ‘non-designated heritage asset’ with Conservation Area protection. Demolition was refused in 2011. Local heritage groups are keen to see it preserved but the current owner seems to be letting it deteriorate. Someone needs to take some action before it’s too late.

The Railway Hotel, Edgware

Listed Grade 11 and described by Historic England as '... among the best examples of a picturesque historicist road-house in the country'. Dating from 1931 and designed by A E Sewell for Truman Hanbury Buxton, brewers.

Closed for a number of years, now in a sad state and in desperate need to attention. The sign outside says 'SOLD' but nothing has happened and a search has not come up with any news of what is going to be done with it. 

Lets hope it will be saved soon - would make a great Wetherspoons 

Reading (Berkshire)

A recent visit to Reading with lots to look at in and around the town centre. Despite a rash of 1960’s and 70’s buildings of poor design and construction there are still a number of interesting Victorian and Edwardian buildings left.

The best building in Reading being Simmonds Bank of 1839 in an ornate Italian Palazzo style by Henry & Nathaniel Briant for clients Joseph & Charles Simmonds & Co. Now empty and awaiting its fate after having been vacated by Barclays bank – the modern extension showing just how bad bank building had become.

A walk down to the High Bridge of 1788 with it’s ‘vermiculated rustication on the voussoirs’, then a perambulation along the main shopping streets but looking above the shop windows to see the decorative details on the Victorian properties. There are some good details if one looks up – many people don’t and just pass by without noticing.

There are a lot more older properties than people may think in Reading and in Castle Street St Mary’s Church of 1840 by Nathaniel Briant is noticeable with its Greek style Corinthian columns and three stepped doorways.

The Grand Doorway to Simmonds Bank

Bargeboards in Guildford

I have recently been searching out interesting examples of bargeboards on buildings around Guildford. This follows a discussion with the editor of the Guildford Society’s Newsletter who suggested that I took a few photos of the bargeboards on some Victorian villas to the East of the town centre.

Having looked around I discovered that there are many good examples of decorative bargeboards in the area, some with just a wavy edge and some being particularly outstanding. I’ve now photographed around 40 different designs and may still come across more as I look around.

This may lead be an article in the G S Newsletter sometime and I’m proposing a short course at the Guildford Institute in the summer term to take attendees out to the Waterden Road / Charlotteville Conservation areas to look and photograph the Victorian buildings with interesting decorative details.

The Imperial War Museum

A look at the redesigned and recently reopened Imperial War Museum. Major changes in the central area and improvements/changes around the galleries. The new WW1 Gallery was too busy, in fact the whole museum was too crowded so a quick exit was made with the decision made to return at a later date, probably in January or February when hopefully it won’t be so popular.

The most interesting part was the Art Galley with a display of paintings and sculpture relating to the First World War. Some excellent works by John and Paul Nash, Stanley Spencer and a large relief sculpture by Charles Sargeant Jagger – in plaster but not executed.

Jagger also designed the Royal Artillery Memorial at Hyde Park Corner (considered to be one of the best war memorials) and the Great Western War Memorial at Paddington Station, as shown below.

Hornsey Town Hall

I volunteered as a guide to Hornsey Town Hall for the Saturday of Open House London weekend having known the building from when I lived nearby and been to a number of events there.

Up to Crouch End for a 9.30am start, already a number of people waiting outside expecting to be able to get in without prior booking (not the case) but a breakdown in communication with Haringey Council caused the problem – and Haringey had not got my name on their list even though I had confirmation from Open House that I was booked in as a volunteer.

The guides were given a tour around the bits of the building that visitors were able to see. Most of the main areas of interested were accessible, although we were restricted to the rear part of the Assembly Room. Visitor groups were kept to around 15 people with two of us taking them around for half an hour or so, although due to the number of visitors we ended up with 35 on one tour.

Most visitors were locals but a few had come some distance for the chance to see inside. The people who came from the area were aware of the current situation regarding the building and proposed future plans for its use. Some expressed concern over its fate and the fact that it had been left to deteriorate since 1965 when it passed from Hornsey Borough Council to Haringey Council.

There’s great potential but funding is the problem and finding a suitable viable use is the challenge. Hopefully public access will be improved but it may well not be open again until Open House London 2015.   

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park

A recent visit, my first since most of the park has reopened. A lot has changed since my last visit and it seems empty without some of the main Olympic venues which were temporary structures , now just open space. The Aquatics Centre looks must better now that the temporary stands on each side have been replaced with glass.

The original landscaping is still in evidence now enhanced with new plantings. Stands of Liquidambars (Sweet Gums) were looking and massed plantings of grasses at their best. The ‘World’ planting scheme which looked so good in 2012 still has some good plants in it but it will be interesting to see how future planting develops.

I did ask the QEOP about their planting plans and received the reply:  We would hope eventually to be able to provide more information on the planting but work on this is currently under consideration.

There is quite a walk between the main facilities such as the Stadium and the VeloPark. I made the suggestion to the QEOP that they might consider installing a Miniature Railway as a means of moving people around the park and as an attraction in its own right.  Their response was: Due to future plans for the Park, including building significant amounts of housing, we are afraid it would not be possible for us to have a railway running through the Park as it will constantly be evolving.

The 'Year of the Bus' at QEOP -

St. George’s Cathedral

Relatively unknown St. George’s RC Cathedral in Southwark is well worth a visit. Originally designed by Augustus Welby  Northmore Pugin in 1848 but bombed out in 1941. Rebuilt and reopened in 1958, in a stylized Gothic style by Architect Romilly Craze.

Quite a successful design, Perpendicular/Arts & Crafts whilst retaining some of Pugin’s original building. The stained glass, apart from a few small surviving original fragments, is modern  with two windows by Goddard & Gibbs, chief designer John Lawson (a family connection).

Little remains of Pugin’s church but what survives shows just how much decoration and colour there was  - a stark contrast to the 1950’s building.  The Cathedral lacks a tower and spire as money has never been available to build one which means the building looks unfinished and does not stand out in its surroundings. If it had one it would get more of the attention that it deserves. 

Romford

A return visit to Romford to see what changes have taken place since I was last there. A busy outdoor  market and a smallish indoor market - I think markets especially large covered markets make a town. I hope that the new town centre plan for Guidford includes a covered, 7 day a week market.

Not much of architectural interest in Romford and only a few listed buildings in the town centre with the church being the main one. St Edward the Confessor probably looks better inside than outside which is not outstanding, designed by J Johnson and built in 1849. An interesting set of stained glass windows.

The other best buildings at the centre are two banks (as I’ve found Banks are usually some of the best buildings in town centres). Neither of these two banks are listed and it seems that mid C20 bank buildings are often overlooked for listing.  I missed looking at the Town Hall which is listed and built in 1935 in the Moderne style as the building lies on the other side of a major road - will have to take a look next time.

London War Memorials

Currently at the Quadriga Gallery in Wellington Arch there is an interesting exhibition about War Memorials, focused mainly on the London ones cared for by English Heritage.

One of the most outstanding examples being the Royal Artillery Memorial, situated at Hyde Park Corner. With excellent carved relief panels by sculptor Charles Jagger graphically portraying scenes from WW1 around the base. ‘No other memorial is as dramatic and brutal in its depiction of modern warfare’.

The exhibition gives an insight into the move throughout the country to erect memorials after the First World War and to the fact that most of them were not paid for by the State but many were the result of contributions from individuals and fellow service men.

Mention is also made of the conservation work being carried out and the need to record the thousands of the memorials from all conflicts that have involved the British.

http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/daysout/properties/wellington-arch/exhibitions-at-the-arch/current-exhibition/

GWR War Memorial on Paddington Station

Salisbury

A train trip to Salisbury on a wet and windy day in February, the last time I visited the city I remember that it was dull and very cold, so I’ve probably not seen Salisbury in the best light!

The city centre busy with people shopping, but first into Wetherspoons The Kings Head Inn, an interesting building with a history going back to the fifteenth century. Watched the rain through the leaded windows.

Then into St Tomas’s church and bought from their book sale a copy of The Red Guide to England, quite a lot has changed since it was published in 1974. I do recall visiting the church back in the late 1960’s but don’t recall much of it (although I still have the guide book), quite a large church with a ‘Doom’ painting.

A good number of interesting buildings in the centre, the Town Hall being especially good, as is Lloyds Bank. Behind the bank the Post Office building and outside two very neglected telephone kiosks – the situation with listed phone boxes needs to be resolved.

Then into the Cathedral with just a few visitors so great to be able to walk around without hoards of tourists, lots to look at but I was particularly interested in a memorial to a Railway Accident in Salisbury on July 1^st 1906 involving the boat train which left the track when travelling at over twice the speed limit through the station resulting in 28 people being killed.

Birmingham

A very wet visit to Birmingham primarily to do the Photography Show at the NEC – that dire collection of sheds where you have to walk miles to get anywhere, anyway it was a good show and worth visiting.

Whilst in Birmingham I wanted to revisit the new Library, a great building. This time I was able to get to see the Shakespeare Memorial Room, this original feature from the city’s Victorian library was designed by John Henry Chamberlain in 1882, it was too busy on my first visit as the library had only just opened, but not too many people this time -  strange to be in a wood panelled period room on top of a modern building.

The Museum & Art Gallery always has things of interest that I have not seen before and the Pre-Raphaelite paintings are fantastic in detail and execution.

Birmingham still has many good Victorian buildings but due to the weather I was unable to take any photos, although I have shot many of them in the past but mostly on film. I ended up sheltering in the Cathedral and looking at the Burne Jones stained glass windows, a fine set.

One building in Birmingham that badly needs to find a new use is the original 1838 London & Birmingham Railway Curzon Street Station by Philip Hardwick, the oldest railway terminus in the world. Unused and neglected for years it’s one of the most important buildings in the city and must be given the attention it deserves. 

Coventry

I’ve visited Coventry many times and quite like it as a city, it has some good parts as well as some post war eyesores. I looked around the two medieval churches in the city centre which I was pleased to find were open for visitors, both have interesting features and stained glass. On this occasion I did not visit the Cathedral due to time constraints and at £8.00 admission I would want to get my monies worth! (not sure how they can justify £8.00?).

One of the best features of Coventry is the central covered Market, a round construction with a car park on the roof. Busy and full of good things that can be found in a proper market – fruit & veg, Meat, hardware, fabrics and household items (nothing arty or crafty). It would be good to have a covered market in Guildford but economics are against having one, although most big towns and cities have a market hall as an asset.

The Banks, as is usual with pre 1960 bank buildings , display their facades to the public with columns and Portland stone giving an impression of solidarity and importance  - it’s disappointing that Banks now no longer value their buildings (or customers) and many good examples have now been sold off. I have written about bank buildings in a previous blog.