BANK

Another trip to the City of London and a visit to the BANK OF ENGLAND MUSEUM (anything to do money and gold bars is an attraction!). The museum is in the reconstructed interior of Sir John Soane’s original banking hall demolished in the 1920’s when the bank was rebuilt and much enlarged (1923 – 1939) by Herbert Baker within Soane’s original walls.

Took additional photos of the exterior of the BoE including the elevation with the ‘Lothbury Ladies’. Also took photos of the Nat West building (1929-32) by Sir Edwin Cooper (former  NATIONAL PROVINCIAL BANK)) opposite the Bank of England and of the MIDLAND BANK building (1924-39) by Sir Edwin Lutyens, a large and by the looks of it, empty building. See pics on FotoLIBRA http://www.fotolibra.com/

A quick look at a couple of churches in the area including one of my favourite churches by Nicholas Hawksmoor  St MARY WOOLNOTH (1716-27) with ‘the most original church exterior in the City of London’ and probably elsewhere with heavy rustication to the front elevation.

Unusual square plan interior with four groups of three big Corinthian angle columns supporting  above a clerestory with large semicircular windows. When Bank underground station was being built the church was under threat of demolition but was saved by the crypt being removed (along with bodies) and the church supported on steel girders.

PORTSMOUTH

A trip down the A3 to Portsmouth to check out possible subjects for ‘PhotoWalks’ in 2012. Firstly a bracing walk along the front at Southsea to the NAVAL MEMORIAL, a prominent feature with its obelisk and WW1 memorial by Sir Robert Lorimer, the WW2 memorial by Sir Edward Maufe with sculptures by Sir Charles Wheeler and William McMillan. Figures of sailors and marines all formal and correct but taking good photos was difficult due to the adverse weather (must return when it’s brighter).

SCULPTURE ON LONDON’S BUILDINGS cont.

On Poultry the monumental MIDLAND BANK HEADQUARTERS building (1926-39) by Sir Edwin Lutyens with a ‘Fat boy with a Goose’ sculptures carved by Sir William Reid Dick at each end of the facade.

The BANK OF ENGLAND building (1925-39) is a substantial block by Sir Herbert Baker built within the external walls (1788) by Sir John Soane. On the BoE main elevation overlooking Threadneedle Street impressive sculptures of naked men and semi-naked women by Sir Charles Wheeler and on the opposite side of the building ‘The Lothbury Ladies’ by Wheeler, he was also responsible for the attractive gilded sculpture of ARIEL flying over one corner of the bank.

Tower Hill War Memorial

Tower Hill War Memorial

The MERCANTILE MARINE MEMORIAL commemorates men and women of the Merchant Navy and Fishing Fleets who died in both World Wars.

The First World War section of the Tower Hill Memorial commemorates almost 12,000 Mercantile Marine casualties, the memorial in Portland Stone was designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens with sculpture by Sir William Reid-Dick. It was unveiled by Queen Mary on 12 December 1928.

The Second World War extension, which commemorates almost 24,000 casualties, was designed by Sir Edward Maufe, with sculpture by Sir Charles Wheeler. It was unveiled by Queen Elizabeth II on 5 November 1955.

The WW11 Memorial takes the form of a sunken garden and has, in addition to a sea of bronze plaques, a set of sculptural panels by Wheeler representing the Seven Seas. I find these sculptures really good with their images of Mermaids, Neptune, Dolphins, fish and shells – quite lively for a war memorial!

Charles Wheeler was also the sculptor for the bronze Mermen sculpture of the Western Fountain in Trafalgar Square. 

London Buildings Cont.

SCULPTURE ON LONDON’S BUILDINGS

A good day in London looking at some interesting buildings with great sculpture and a lovely sunny day to add dimension to the photographs taken – a selection will be put on FotoLIBRA in due course.

Starting in Trafalgar Square with SOUTH AFRICA HOUSE  1931-33 by Sir Herbert Baker and Alexandra Thomson Scott, a large Portland Stone faced building set on one side of Trafalgar Square . Decorative carvings in Portland Stone by Joseph Armitage to designs by Sir Charles Wheeler, also by Wheeler a gilded Springbok leaping from the wall, high up a coat of arms by Armstrong. Listed Grade 11*

A short walk along the Strand, past Charing Cross and the next building ZIMBABWE HOUSE formally Rhodesia House, 1906-08 by Charles Holden. In neo-mannerist style with grey Cornish and Portland Stone cladding and niches containing mutilated figures by Jacob Epstein. Listed Grade 11*

Through Covent Garden (an area I know well from having worked there at The Lady magazine in Bedford Street) to Freemasons’ Hall, a monumental structure built 1927-32, by Architects H V Ashley and F Winton Newman. Loads of Portland Stone and with imposing entrance columns and bronze doors. Listed Grade 11*

Then onto the city of London ...

CHARING CROSS cont.

On my third look around the area of the cross I actually found two cast metal information panels set into the front pillars of the station forecourt. I had passed by them many times whilst walking along the Strand but had not noticed the panels which give some information on Charing Cross  - but there is no detailed interpretation close by the cross which would be helpful.

THE CHARING CROSS

THE CHARING CROSS (London)

Usually passed by without a second look by commuters rushing in and out of Charing Cross Station, the present Eleanor Cross is a replacement for the original cross pulled down by order of parliament in 1647.

Queen Eleanor was the wife of Edward 1st and the cross is one of many erected at points on the journey where her body was rested on its way from Lincoln to Westminster for burial. The mediaeval cross was situated at the top of Whitehall but the South Eastern Railway commissioned the replacement cross to be built on the forecourt of its new station in The Strand.

 Designed by E M Barry dates from 1863-5, is a prime example of 19C Victorian Gothic and has been listed Grade 11*. The Eleanor Cross stands 70ft high and was constructed by Thomas Earp of Lambeth from Portland stone, Mansfield stone and Aberdeen granite.

Recently cleaned and restored it lacks any information/interpretation on site, I raised this with English Heritage but they advised me that it was up to Network Rail to provide this as it was on their property – I intend to take this up with N R to see what they say.

Next time you are on the Strand take a closer look at the cross, but watch out for the taxis which use it as a roundabout!

SOUTHWARK CATHEDRAL

In preparation for the Photography Course to be held at the Cathedral on 15^th October there follows a short description of the key points of note.

The Cathedral and Collegiate Church of St Saviour and St Mary Overie. Created a Cathedral in 1905.

A church first erected in 1106. Much altered and restored over the years. The oldest part of the present building is the Retro-choir and Choir built in 1207. The Transepts remodelled 15C, the Tower dates from the late 14C - 15C.

Restoration began 1818 – 23 with the Choir and the Tower by George Gwilt the younger . The Transepts much altered in 1830 by Robert Wallace. Retro-choir restored in 1833 by Gwilt. Tower pinnacles by Gwilt. 

The Nave was pulled down in 1838 and replaced in 1839-40 by Henry Rose then swept away in 1890 – 97 and completely rebuilt by A W Blomfield.

The Havard Chapel 12C but largely by Blomfield. Contains a Tabernacle by A W N Pugin, shown at the 1851 exhibition, it went to St Augustine Ramsgate and then given to the Cathedral in 1971.

South Transept vaults and South window by Blomfield. 20C Retro-choir Altars and Screens by Ninian Comper. The 1520 stone Altar Screen much restored with 1833 canopies, friezes and demi-angels restored by Wallace, the statues by Nicholls date from 1905, guilded and repainted by Comper in 1950. Behind the screen East window The Glory of God also by Comper.

Organ case by Bloomfield. Creation window by Henry Holiday 1893, N. Aisle windows 100-0 by Kempe. Martyrs window by Ward & Hughes, 1890.  Shakespeare window by C Webb, 1954. Shakespeare Memorial by Henry W McCarthy, 1911. Edmond Shakespeare buried in church 1607.

Austin Memorial in N. Transept by Nicholas Stone, features the Angel of the Restoration pointing to the Sun of Righteousness, supported by Rock of Christ from which issues a stream and a serpent.

Course information can be found on my photo blog: http://polypodphoto.blogspot.com/

Brighton & Banks

A day trip to Regency on Sea to visit the Museums Association event at the Brighton Centre. Picked up some useful information in the exhibition.

Brighton appears to have more than its fair share of ‘strange’ people and some interesting shops and of course The Pavilion and Brighton Museum, which has an excellent display of ceramics and glass.

Pleased to see that Wetherspoons have ‘saved’ another fine building now THE POST & TELEGRAPH in North Street. It’s great to see interesting buildings being put to good use once they have been discarded by the companies and banks that had originally erected them at considerable expense.

Banks certainly put money into architecture to show their importance and standing in the Victorian and Edwardian periods, now bank branches just look like shops in the High Street. In many towns the best buildings in the High Street were the banks, they took pride in their branches which helped to convey the right image to their customers.

Many of the best bank buildings which survived have now become pubs, bars and restaurants. Wetherspoons have some good examples and I particularly like THE KNIGHTS TEMPLAR in London’s Chancery Lane, the former Union Bank, with a very grand interior – well worth a pint or two!

Stoke Newington (part 2)

A second visit to STOKE NEWINGTON to further explore the area. The best part is centred on Church Street which retains some of the quality of a village with two churches, St Mary’s old church and new church (1858) by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott (spire 1890) and nearby CLISSOLD PARK.

In the park is the early 19^th century CLISSOLD HOUSE by Joseph Woods, listed Grade 11*, the house has recently been restored (not yet open when I visited) built in yellow stock brick with a prominent main west facade comprised of a six Doric columned veranda. 

The area obviously was up market and a place to live in Victorian London with fashionable villas overlooking the park, including the one that my grandmother lived in before her marriage.

A walk through ABNEY PARK CEMETERY revealed many more ‘Sainsbury’s pink’ granite monuments and also a number in grey polished granite – as crisp as the day they were erected despite the overgrown nature of the place. The MORTUARY CHAPEL looking in a very sad state, hopefully something can be done to at least stop the rot.

Stoke Newington (North London)

Whilst doing some research into the Sleigh family history I found references to Stoke Newington and the address of my Grandmothers family house, a visit was made to check the area out being a part of London that I was not familiar with. I found an unexpected cemetery of note, Abney Park Cemetery.

The cemetery had not appeared on my list of ‘to do’ cemeteries so it came as a surprise, it’s not as grand as Highgate (which has the Sleigh family plot) and is more overgrown and neglected than most cemeteries, but is still an important Victorian development and now designated as a nature reserve.

Abney Park Cemetery opened in 1840’s as a non-denominational cemetery, entered through Egyptian Revival entrance gates it contains many tombs and graves of interest, some of the best ones dating to the period 1870 – 1900’s with a number of the prominent ones in the polished stone (pink granite?) similar to that once used by Sainsbury’s for their shop fronts.

The best and most obvious feature in the cemetery is the Mortuary Chapel, listed Grade 11 but currently in a very sad state and with no signs of salvation. Designed by William Hosking in a ‘Dissenting Gothic’ style  - low Gothic as opposed to the High Gothic style of A. W. N. Pugin. Constructed in grey brick with stone detailing its suffered a fire and neglect and looks like it needs urgent attention.

Scheduled as a historic park and garden “at risk” have a look before it’s too late!

Limehouse & Greenwich

A recent visit to Limehouse, Canary Wharf and Greenwich. A wet Limehouse and only the exterior of St Anne’s church accessible, too dim to get good photos but some record shots taken anyway.

St. Anne’s (built 1714-30) is one of Nicholas Hawksmoor’s six London churches, he is one of the great British Architects of all time and is featured in my blogs. He could do the Classical ‘fancy bits’ when required but his individualistic interpretations of both Classical and Gothic styles set him apart from other Architects (except perhaps Vanbrugh who he worked with on some buildings).

Hawksmoor’s bold, elemental and in some cases abstract detailing stands out, he is famous for his keystones! This was my first visit to St. Anne’s and particularly admired the tower which is its crowning achievement -he was particularly good at designing unique towers. The tower must have really stood out when it was first built but is now dwarfed by the tower blocks of Canary Wharf just down the road.

Leaving Limehouse a look around Canary Wharf some fantastic buildings but I love the underground station, some great concrete. Then followed by a visit to the Museum of London Docklands, contains some good exhibits about the importance to London of the River Thames and the docks.

Next a walk under the Thames via the Greenwich Foot Tunnel (built 1897-1902) currently the period buildings atop the shafts are undergoing restoration and the lifts are not working so many steps to descend and then ascend into Greenwich, the foot tunnel is an experience worth trying.

     

Southwark Part2

Another trip to Southwark with a visit this time to two Cathedrals – one Anglican and the other Roman Catholic. St George’s the RC Cathedral,  was designed by Augustus Welby Northmore Pugin and opened in 1848 but was bombed and gutted by fire in 1941.

Subsequently rebuilt to an Arts and Crafts/Gothic Revival style by R B Craze retaining what little survived of AWNP’s work which includes some encaustic tiling and painted carving. The new work keeping to gothic principals but lacking the decoration and detailing beloved of Pugin. Mainly modern stained glass – not much to my liking.

The cathedral building is not well known and could be confused with the other Southwark Cathedral. It also can easily be passed by in the street as it lacks a tower and spire, although Pugin had designed the church to have one and had originally designed a much larger church, but lack of money put pay to his plans.

After a quick dip into the Imperial War Museum which is opposite to St George’s I returned to the better known and easier to find cathedral: The Cathedral and Collegiate Church of St Saviour and St Overie, Southwark – the only cathedral that reverberates not to the sound of the organ but to the rumble of trains passing on the viaduct nearby!

Looked around the interior to check out suitable subjects/views/angles to photograph in anticipation of running photo courses at the cathedral starting in October, see my photo blog: http://polypodphoto.blogspot.com/

Southwark & Bankside (London)

What a change to this part of London from the days when I walked around in the late 1960’s (having worked over the river in the city). Former warehouses now converted into expensive apartments and shops, with tourists flocking to see the sights – the Globe Theatre and of course Tate Modern.

Then there’s Southwark Cathedral, I’ve always thought that the Cathedral sits oddly in its setting overshadowed by railway viaducts and up close with Borough Market. An exciting new viaduct is currently being built soaring over the market as part of the Thames Link / London Bridge Station improvements - worth looking at, as is The Shard.

Southwark Cathedral , although the original building dates from the 1200’s and the central tower from 15C, much has been repaired with the Nave being rebuilt in 1890-96 by Sir Arthur Blomfield . Lots of interest to see within the church, monuments and stained glass, especially the Shakespeare window by C Webb of 1954.

I am currently planning a series of Photography Courses to take in the Cathedral  and Historic Bankside, see my photo blog for details http://polypodphoto.blogspot.com/

Aldershot & Fleet

ALDERSHOT (Hampshire)

Aldershot still retains some of its original Victorian buildings but some of those that remain are under threat from developers who want to ‘improve’ the town centre. Once a thriving town due to its large army garrison - the ‘Home of the British Army’ the town centre has been going downhill for some time –probably not helped by the reduction in the army presence.

It now looks like its lost the battle to other nearby larger and better shopping centres. The local paper recently carried out a survey on the street to gauge local opinion about the proposed demolition of three old buildings next to the Wellington Centre who want to expand (despite having a whole Mall full of empty shops which they can’t let).

I was approached for my thoughts on the loss of these buildings and my views appeared with others in last week’s Aldershot News & Mail.  The general feeling from the respondents was that it would be a pity to lose anymore local heritage but there was a need for better shops and to improve the shopping facilities. In the case of these three buildings none of them are of any special architectural merit but they do contribute to the diversity of the streetscape, their loss will be one more step to the ‘clone high street’.  Personally I consider that it would be a mistake and once they are gone they are gone.

FLEET (Hampshire)

A straight main street with no buildings of any architectural interest at all so the parish church comes as a surprise. A small gem by the flamboyant Victorian Gothic Architect William Burges. All Saints church built 1861-62 (West end lengthened 1934 by A.J.Stedman). Built in red brick with stone details,  the interior brickwork and roof painted with geometric ornamental motifs (Burges used extensive painted decoration in most of his buildings such as Cardiff Castle).

Plain glass but interesting Nave windows with Chancel stained glass by Clayton & Bell, the Chancel is painted white and looks out of place it should be dark to match the Nave (I agree with the Pevsner guide on this). The tomb of the benefactor is worth looking at with two well figured stone dogs at his feet.

Oxford

Oxford Part 1.

The Museum of Natural History

A great Victorian building designed by Thomas Newenham Deane and Benjamin Woodward. Built 1855 - 60. Of particular interest is the central court with a glass roof supported on cast iron columns sprouting natural forms, with leaves and branches in sculptured metal. Also interesting are the arcade columns made from British stone with some lovely marbles.
Well worth a visit.

Oxford Part 2.

A second visit this year to Oxford – one of my favourite cities. An early morning (7.30am) ride into the city centre on the top deck of the P&R bus saw a weak sun lapping the towers and crocketed finials of the colleges. A surprising number of people out and about at that time of the morning.

On past visits I had not really looked properly at the buildings around the Bodleian Library, nice coloured stone with classical and gothic detailing. On one corner is the Clarendon Building by Hawksmoor (1713) – more about Nicholas Hawksmoor in a blog to come. Opposite the Clarendon Building on the other side of the road is the massive New Bodleian building by Sir Giles Scott (1935).

I always like to walk around the Covered Market which still retains some ‘proper’ shops selling food and there’s the original Cafe which does a good cup of tea and cake! Covered markets are a feature of some towns, with a host of stallholders selling things that are no longer available on the clone high streets. The market in Oxford has a timber roof but many, especially Victorian, are of Iron and Glass construction which brings me back to the Natural History Museum which I revisited.

A diversion to Italy - Part 1.

A diversion from my normal blog on British subjects with a recent trip to Italy and the Amalfi Coast.

After the required visit to Pompeii (interesting, but too hot to really appreciate it) a walk up Vesuvius (dusty and busy) was worth the effort. I was disappointed by the lack of on site 'interpretation' and found the shacks selling tourist tat on the top of Vesuvius an eyesore.

The Amalfi Coast offers a fantastic location with hair-raising coast roads and interesting clusters of local buildings seemingly stuck to the mountain sides. I saw a similarity to the Isle of Portland in Dorset - houses piled high one on top of another, with cliffs rising from the sea (but without the expensive apartments and clear blue water).

Baroque churches with coloured tiled domes and over decorated interiors are a feature of the local towns. The style of decoration reminds me of fairground art - lots of bright colours, gold leaf, reflections and coloured lights. There's no concern about using unsuitable lamps in traditional fitments, such as low energy bulbs in sliver candlesticks on alters and exposed strip lights making them look more like market stalls than churches .

cont...

Watts Gallery, Compton, Surrey

I was privileged to have a preview of Watts Gallery recently before it opens to the public on 18 June. The only gallery in this country dedicated to a single artist, who was considered to be one of the great Victorian painters.

An excellent restoration of the building and a fantastic setting for his works. What a change from the gallery I remember, first visited in 1970 you had to ring the doorbell and after some delay the curator would let you in and show you around (not many people knew of the gallery in those days) it was dull and damp and the paintings were difficult to see, let alone appreciate!

Even if Watts work is sometimes overbearing (and over large) a visit to the gallery is a must, its just down the A3 from Guildford.

Reading (Berkshire)

A quick walk around Reading town centre today -  looking above the shop windows revealed a host of interesting building fronts, mainly dating from the late Victorian period. Many architectural details passed by and unseen by the shoppers in the street below. A longer visit with the camera is merited.

Reading also has some earlier buildings with the Abbey ruins and also two churches, mainly rebuilt by the Victorians, in St Mary's some good stained glass by Clayton & Bell.

The Simeon Monument in Market Place was designed by Sir John Soane in 1804, a detail can be viewed on photoLIBRA http://www.fotolibra.com/?u=26969

Brompton Cemetery (London)

After spending time at The Museums & Heritage Show yesterday I crossed over the road from Earls Court into another world, a world of the dead - Brompton Cemetery.

The cemetery was one of seven large cemeteries in London founded by private companies in the mid-nineteenth century. Designed by Benjamin Baud in 1839-40 it is one of the best; with entrance gates and long stone arcading leading to a domed chapel, all in classical style and listed Grade 11*.

The cemetery also contains a number of fine, listed memorials and thousands of grave stones packed very close together and in some places forming a sea of crosses. Perhaps not as 'atmospheric' as Highgate Cemetery (where the Sleigh have a family grave) Brompton certainly is still outstanding.

Southampton Art Gallery

The Art Gallery is part of the Civic Centre, it's a gallery that I had not been to before but proved to be well worth a visit.

A good collection of paintings from various periods but the most interesting (for me anyway) is a set of large gouache works by Burne-Jones as featured in a recent ITV Perspectives programme '|A Passion for the Pre-Raphaelites'.

The gallery, I understand, is a rebuild after WW2 bombing and in a simpler style to the Guildhall's hexastyle Ionic colonnade.  http://www.southampton.gov.uk/s-leisure/artsheritage/sotonartgallery/

Southampton Civic Centre

Visited Southampton and spent an interesting day exploring the townscape. Despite the efforts of German WW2 bombing there is still some heritage left to see.

Southampton Civic Centre is a grand group of buildings, currently undergoing building works on one side for a new museum. Constructed 1928 - 39 by Architect E Berry Webber.

The Guildhall frontage is imposing in classical style, faced with Portland stone see: http://www.fotolibra.com/?u=26969

Westminster Abbey

I've uploaded 4 more pics of the West Front which can be viewed on fotoLIBRA
http://www.fotolibra.com/?u=26969

Westminster Abbey

With the Royal Wedding very much in the news I have looked again at two photos I took in 2006 of the West Front of the Abbey. Most visitors will not realize that the 'look' of the West Front is mainly due to the work of Nicholas Hawksmoor who remodelled the lower part and designed the two towers in 1739.
The images can be viewed on fotoLIBRA by using this link  http://www.fotolibra.com/?u=26969

Barking (Essex)

A chance visit to Barking in Essex lead to the discovery of an unexpected example of 'grand' civic architecture in the Town Hall with imposing tower and classical detailing. Designed in 1936 by Jackson & Edmonds but not built until 1954-8. Intend to return with the camera to take some photos ASAP.

Another surprise was that Barking had an Abbey founded c666 by St. Erkenwald, not much left to see now but the parish church in the Abbey grounds appears to use some recycled stone and the Gatehouse has survived.

Oxford. Museum of Natural History

A great Victorian building designed by Thomas Newenham Deane and Benjamin Woodward. Built 1855 - 60. Of particular interest is the central court with a glass roof supported on cast iron columns sprouting natural forms, with leaves and branches in sculptured metal. Also interesting are the arcade columns made from British stone with some lovely marbles.
Well worth a visit.